Objects of Desire

While the materials innovation is vital, both for the planet and for the subcultures of consumers who choose to express their green credentials through their purchases, there is also a more interesting change afoot (!).

At the heart of many of the observations we have made of the Express Arena is a shift from ‘Old Power’ to ‘New Power’.

Old power behaved as a currency – fiercely guarded, finite and fleeting. New Power, by contrast behaves like a current – it is fluid and open, participatory and peer driven.   

You could argue that luxury is predicated in power – with its familial ‘houses’ and notorious wealth. As the nature of power begins to change, does luxury need to change too? 

So in this sneaker we see that Gucci, one of the most prophetic powers in luxury has, in its 100^th year, chosen to democratize its power by open-sourcing Demetra, and making it available to any company in the fashion industry as a new material source for good.

In this move, Gucci demonstrates to the world that it is, once ahead, one step ahead of the dynamics of tomorrow.

Gucci Basket, (courtesy of Gucci shop).

Buying anything from there doesn’t ensure that it is healthy, it ensures that it is the healthiest version of that particular food found anywhere in the world (unless you’re making everything old school from scratch on a farm!).

Many articles have been recently written about this now buzzy grocery store in the past year. Some call it a parody or satire of Los Angeles health-obsessed culture, other’s roll their eyes at how scene-y it had become over the pandemic. But it is just another example of totem brands that outwardly signal, our internal values. In this case, spiritually minded, conscious eaters who find the best type of splurging is one that directly feeds the body you rely on everyday.

The wealthier, West side of LA has become the epicenter for this community and the brands that cater to them – think of Moon Juice, Goop and Butcher’s Daughter. These badge brands not only signal the economic capital needed to buy a $25 smoothie but also the moral or ethical capital that comes with supporting conscious brands that are good for you and the environment. Carrying a recycled paper Erewhon bag is modern luxury. Some say a new status symbol juxtaposed to carrying a Hermes bag. Consumers are signifying the tribe they belong to, and the thoughtful attitude they have towards their wealth which in some circles carries more weight than the iconic ostrich leather Birkin itself.

Erewhon grocery bag, (courtesy of Erewhon shop).

According to the Financial Times: “For some, NFTs represent nothing more than a speculative bubble, part of a wider concern around get-rich-quick schemes linked to crypto markets. For others, it is a historic challenge to the gatekeepers who have traditionally determined the monetary and cultural value of art, leaving collectors, museums and auction houses guessing whether NFTs will ultimately generate a new market for digital art among younger buyers.”

It is worth noting that bidders under the age of 40 accounted for 64 per cent of offers for the Beeple NFT.

Beeple (b. 1981), EVERYDAYS: THE FIRST 5000 DAYS, (courtesy of Christie’s).

The islands have created unique animals and fauna which continue to flourish thanks to an assiduous control.  Having no natural predators the native animals are defenseless against potential predators such as cats, dogs, cattle etc. which are kept out of the ecosystem.

Our luxury is the fact that we, humans, are able to visit (under strict numbers control) and to share in this extraordinary environment where animals of all sorts do not move an inch if you go towards them. They have no reason to mistrust. They live in a world that does not require protection from threat. Is this what Utopia would look like?

To that end, the most compelling and visible characters in the movie are Beyonce’s costumes, which are exquisite contemporary interpretations of African traditions by established luxury brands, including Erdem, Burberry and Valentino, and emerging designers. The costumes unapologetically and eloquently reclaim African identity as rich, storied and – above all – relevant to a new generation of American consumers.

This garter, worn by Beyonce in the movie, was designed by Loza Maléombho, a designer who was born in Brazil and raised between Côte d’Ivoire and the United States. Loza’s work connects traditional African aesthetics and contemporary fashion – rooted in history yet somehow futuristic. In many ways Loza’s work embodies the condition of America’s youthful minorities (who, incidentally, are the future of engine of brand growth in America) – looking to connect with their heritage in ways that are relevant to their modern lives.

“As a first-generation American, I grew up in a Latin and Caribbean household. My identity was trying to figure out how to balance these stories, and who I was because of them. What I’ve come to realize (thanks to the support of my generation) is to embrace where I come from, but don’t let it stop me from becoming who I am. To hold onto my culture and heritage, while also adding a little “razzle dazzle”. I am part of this new wave of my generation with hopes of creating a better, more inclusive future like those that came before us.” — Antionette, 25, USA, Marketing Professional.

Garter, Loza Maléombho, (courtesy of Black Owned Everything™ Instagram profile).

Post-pandemic, the circular economy is set to accelerate disruption in express – as sustainability becomes a priority for consumers, especially among Gen Z where platforms like Depop sit at the confluence of social influence, social currency and the resale revolution.  Depop has also begun to define the style of this generation too.

After a year of essentialism, value is being re-evaluated. The ThredUp 2021 Resale Report, suggests that 1 in 3 consumers care more about wearing sustainable apparel than before the pandemic and saving money on clothes is now the top priority.

And all of this means that the second-hand market is projected to double in the next five years, reaching $77bn and, inevitably, resale is emerging as a growth opportunity within the omni-channel mix for retail. Indeed, according to ThredUp, 60% of retailers have or are open to offering second hand to their customers.

With leading brands including Mulberry and Isabel Marant among the first to make moves into resale, brands now have to consider the “second lives” of their products in their story too, to engage consumers, and drive commercial advantage.

The Birkin Bag, (courtesy of Vestiaire Collective).

Designed by the streetsellers, or manteros, themselves, in collaboration with an architechts and graphic designers, these limited edition “solidarity sneakers” will be priced at 115 euros each and are aimed at Gen Z consumers with an ethical mindset.

As workers’ rights, pay and conditions – and unionization – become growing topics of conversation across the world, brands can no longer operate in an ecosystem where any part of the value chain is being systematically disenfranchised.

Sneakers Ande Dem, (courtesy of Popular Cooperative of Street Vendors of Barcelona, SCCL / Top Manta shop).

But those who are familiar with the power of K-Pop fans won’t be surprised by this success.

BTS fans call themselves the ARMY, which stands for “Adorable Representative M.C. for Youth”. Between January 1, 2020, and December 31, 2020 there were 18 million unique authors mentioning BTS online. The ARMY has successfully changed laws relating to military service; they have interfered in Trump rallies; they have mobilized support for Black Lives Matter, and driven millions of dollars of donations to good causes.

These are not highly coordinated political or philanthropic activists. These are pop fans with the power and the motivation to change the world for the better.

BTS X McDonald’s Collaboration Merch, Melting Collection, (courtesy of Weverse shop).

“Who doesn’t want to be able to say they studied at Harvard, or MIT? If you had the discretionary spend, and the time, where would you invest it? In the context of a Hundred Year Life, in which careers last longer and longer. These brands have extraordinary desirability and relevance.”

CEO John Foley said the fitness company is aiming to have 100 million paying subscribers.

“100 million subscribers, we believe is a reasonable goal,” Foley said Tuesday during Peloton’s first investor meeting as a public company, which was held virtually. “There’s close to 200 million gym-goers in the world. That’s 200 million people paying hard money, month after month, to access what we believe to be inferior fitness equipment in an inferior location.”

Its not just the numbers that are looking healthier, Peloton’s users are working out more, too. It said its connected fitness subscribers are averaging 24.7 workouts per month, up from 12 a year earlier. This is due in part to the company extending into other workouts, like yoga and stretching.

According to NYT becoming a member of the Peloton pack is an investment: roughly $2,500 for the first year and nearly $500 each year thereafter. And that’s for the base model – Once you purchase the Bike itself, you need to keep paying a $39 monthly subscription fee, or you’re left with just three classes and a free-ride mode that displays only real-time data on the screen.

Peleton Bike, (courtesy of Peleton).